London Fashion Week is a fashion month staple that has given us iconic designers like Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Vivienne Westwood, & Stella McCartney but a new crowd of designers has been making it all their own. We started our roast with Riccardo Tisci’s work at Burberry. The Italian designer famed for making Givenchy relevant still hasn’t found his footing over at Burberry, and between a lack of desirable trenchcoats, missed opportunities for cool prints, and layering that just feels overbearing, this season was a bust. Simone Rocha quickly stepped in as one of the strongest collections for the Brits, even though she’s Irish. Her work was really just a re-emphasis on her brand DNA as well as a smart little nod to Cristobal Balenciaga when it came to silhouette. It’s also hard not to notice that Rocha has brought 3 piece suiting to a whole new level. Molly Goddard, the Madame of Tulle, put out a shocking collection that felt more wacky than commercial. She definitely promised clients that her signature tulle dresses weren’t going anywhere and that she could turn them into more wearable options like a shirt, but overall it felt a bit too funky. Then we looked at Christopher Kane’s art class collection. The designer opted for Quality over Quantity, and it worked in his favor as paints and glitters reimagined office classics as well as gave bright and punchy new prints. Robert Wun is new to our list of British designers we discuss, but his pleats and folding styles are so abstract and new that they’re hard to describe. And well that’s a good thing in my book. His collection reimagined suits, gave new depths to how stitching can contour the body, and cascaded pleats through multiple looks that would make both rainbows and waterfalls jealous. JW Anderson by Jonathan Anderson rounded out the London Fashion Week calendar with a collection that was a subtle attempt at commercial pieces, that still had hints of kookiness that Anderson is known for. Whether it was military-inspired coats full of pockets, textured chevron motifs, or an orange dress that would be perfect for a Halloween party if you’re dressing as a pumpkin, it was a full-throttle of fashion. Overall, the designers did their best to reestablish classics and try not to scare off their customers too much, and I respect just about any balancing act brands are willing to try and make work.
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Rachel Fritz: https://www.instagram.com/rachelfritz/