Paris Fashion Week is the biggest fashion event of the year, except well maybe for Haute Couture. But this season although there were quite a few brands showing, not too many left an impact. And while that does pay the bills for HauteLeMode, it doesn’t make us happy 🙁 We discussed the Austrian-Nigerian designer Kenneth Ize, and his use of the Aso Oke fabric as well as having Naomi Campbell close his show. Marine Serre’s collection felt a bit disheveled, but she continued to brand her signature crescent moon in a diverse manner. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior is still a mess, but there’s not much new top dissect. Shocking? Only if you’re dumb. Saint Laurent explored latex this season, but really only mixed with 70’s and 80’s styles, which feels a bit reductive considering it’s Yves Saint Laurent’s namesake. John Galliano explored colors and upcycling for Margiela, which was nice but not revolutionary. Casey Cadwallader continued his work at Mugler with lots of bodysuits, but the non-mastery of leather was evident. Paco Rabanne explored medieval fantasies and continued to show his tailoring which continues to reinvigorate a house known for its space-age aesthetics. Rick Owens looked at David Bowie and Kansai Yamamoto’s work, except here’s it’s suited to a women’s wardrobe. Virgil Abloh’s Off-White this season still lacks that spark to make it stand out. Loewe was second to JW Anderson this season, but that didn’t mean it wasn’t beautiful! Olivier Rousteing’s collection for Balmain helped him get back in fashion’s good grace’s, I mean who doesn’t love a sculpted leather bodice? Balenciaga made you think about climate change with it’s set, but also looked at clergical garments! Valentino’s ready to wear always leaves me wanting more, especially when the soundtrack was all Billie Eilish, but I didn’t see a fat suit. It was a zoo at Thom Browne, and between the two by two and animal bags, Noah’s Ark seems booked and busy. Clare Waight Keller’s Givenchy was disappointing, although it was better than last season. But anything would be better than last season. Alexander McQueen took on Wales, and Sarah Burton demonstrated her tailoring skills. But I will always ask for a bit more drama from her. Kanye West got back on the scene with his Yeezy collection, and while he filled it with brand staples, one textile left me excited. Chanel was the three Bs: bored, bad, and bewildering. While Nicholas Ghesquiere fumbled his ability to put together a collection that correlated all that much with the Met Gala’s theme, which LV is sponsoring.
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Rachel Fritz: https://www.instagram.com/rachelfritz/